Bike service

Every bike bought in our shop comes with a free first service. Have it done after 200-300 km or within a month of buying the bike. The service isn't mandatory, but we highly recommend it: after the first kilometers, any bike can develop small technical issues that a mechanic can't spot while preparing it for sale. Under load, the spoke nipples can settle, and the wheel can go slightly out of true. As you ride, shift, and brake (with mechanical brakes), the cable housings can bed in, so shifting or braking gets less precise. Fairly often a clicking sound appears while riding. It usually comes from the bottom bracket, which then needs to be taken apart and greased with a special grease, and after that the problem doesn't come back. After the first kilometers, often at the first service, customers complain about shifting. The cause is often a stiff link in the chain, which directly affects shifting. These are the most common issues we fix for free at the first service. Either way, we highly recommend this service, even if you have no complaints after your first rides. We especially recommend that parents who bought a child's bike in our shop have this service done, even if the child doesn't complain about how the bike rides.

This question comes up for discussion every now and then, and the discussion is always about what a ''service'' costs: what does it actually include, and how much is it? On paper it looks simple: ''Service: price''. We don't really have such a ''price'', and we give our prices only as estimates, because every bike's condition and the list of work it needs are very different, so we can't set one standard price for a bike service. We've always tried to be open and honest with our customers, so: if the bike is in good technical condition and the mechanics don't have much to fix, a service costs 15-40 Eur; if the list of work is longer, the bike needs washing, and so on, a service costs about 40-50 Eur.

There's no single answer, because every rider's habits and riding intensity are different. For example, an active SEB MTB marathon racer needs a service after almost every race, while someone who goes for leisurely weekend rides needs one service a year, usually in spring. Our advice: keep an eye on your bike's condition every time you ride. Strange noises, clicks and creaks, brakes that work worse than before, or a bike that doesn't roll as well as it used to are probably the first signs that it's time to ask our mechanic about a repair.

The Xsports bike service always has tools on hand if something needs a quick fix. If you can do the work yourself (without getting in the way of the service or the shop, and keeping things clean), you're welcome to come by, and it's free. Services such as pumping up tires on bikes and strollers are free too, and of course you don't need to queue for them.

Tire pressure is set first of all by the tire manufacturer: the maximum pressure is printed on the tire (max PSI and max BAR), and that's the pressure to pump the tire to. To do it right, the pump needs a pressure gauge. P.S. As we mentioned, pumping up tires is a free service in our shop.

Check tire pressure fairly often: whatever their diameter or width, all tires are subject to diffusion, which means the pressure drops over time. That's why bike tires are almost flat after standing for a long time. Our advice: if you ride regularly, check (and most likely pump up) your tires at least once a month.

The best answer is to explain the types of pumps, so you can decide which one you need. Small pumps that are easy to carry: these come in handy if you go on longer rides with a spare tube, tire levers, and of course the skill to change a tube. Modern small pumps are easy to use and pumping doesn't take much effort, but keep in mind that it's hard to reach full pressure with them. They're meant to pump a tire up enough to ride safely to the nearest bike service, gas station, or similar. CO2 cartridge pumps: their main advantages are size, weight, and of course speed. Pumping with a CO2 cartridge pump is very convenient and quick, and you can reach quite a high pressure. On the downside, every cartridge costs money, and if you're unlucky, the CO2 can escape into the air instead of the tube, which can be quite unpleasant if you get a puncture far from civilization (tip: carry at least 2 cartridges). A floor pump is of course the best choice at home, because it pumps tires to the right pressure quickly and accurately.

Lube a bike chain with a suitable chain lube, and clean the chain as well as you can first. Never use WD-40, motorcycle chain oil, or all-purpose lubricants: they're very sticky and quickly attract dust and sand. Tip: lube the inside of the chain, applying a few drops evenly along its whole length. And remember: it's better to lube the chain more often with a little lube than to overdo it all at once!

A chain lasts 1000-1500 km on average, depending of course on riding conditions, chain quality, and so on. You can measure chain wear very easily at home with a simple tool made for the job: a chain checker. There are digital chain checkers too, but simple metal tools are perfectly good enough. A new chain has a set length: 1 link, 1 inch. Wear is measured over 12 links: on a new chain they measure 12''. Once 12 links measure 12 1/16'' (0.5% of the chain length, usually marked 0.5 on the checker), it's time to replace the chain; once 12 links measure 12 1/8'' (1%), the chain is worn out and must be replaced right away.

If something isn't right after a bike service, just come back to us, and we'll look into it in all good conscience and solve any problem! We want lasting, good relationships with our customers. We ask our customers to check the quality of the service as soon as they pick up their bike, with a test ride right here by our shop.

Yes. If you've had a road accident and need a repair estimate for your insurance company, come to our service: we'll fully assess the bike's condition and prepare a well-founded repair estimate that you can then submit to your insurer.